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Make your own slug killer Empty Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 16:02
How to make your own slug killer
In any average garden some slugs will be carrying bacterial diseases or be infected by nematodes, but their low density means that they won’t devastate the rest of the population.
But, catch and confine the slugs and, if the disease or nematodes are present, you can concentrate these micro-predators and harness their natural slug-killing power.
Collect as many slugs as you can find in a jar that has a few small air holes punched in the lid with a hammer and nail – and a few weed leaves for them to eat. The best time to hunt for slugs is after dark. In the gloom, slugs become quite brazen and eat on top of leaves as opposed to holing up in cool, dark and damp places as by day.
If stumbling around with a torch is a bridge too far, look for slugs during the day in the drainage holes of pots, beneath stones and hunkered in long grass. If they evade your efforts, set traps. A classic that works brilliantly for hard-to-find small ground-dwelling slugs is to place the scooped out half-shells of grapefruits near the crowns of vulnerable plants.
Come dawn, the slugs make for the damp yellow domes, as they love to chew the pith inside. Slugs also make a beeline for cardboard. Lay a sheet on the ground among long grass. Check your traps daily and gather your slimy harvest into a jar.
Once you have caught around 10 to 20 slugs – the more you have the better it works – decant them into a bucket with an inch or so of water in the bottom for humidity and a few more handfuls of leaves to make an edible floating island for your catch.
With the slugs safely inside, place a concrete slab (or any firm cover) over the top to seal them in. The bucket is the perfect environment for the nematodes and bacteria to breed. Nematodes spread in water, so check regularly, giving the slugs a stir with a stick. The idea isn’t to drown them but to keep them moist so the nematodes can hunt them out.
Top tip: This is cheating a bit, but you can use a bought pack of nematodes to “seed” the brew. Tap about a teaspoon of powder into the bucket to help it along.
After a fortnight a high level of nematodes will have built up inside the bucket and the slugs will have died from infection. Now, you can dilute the brew: fill the bucket to the top from the tap and decant into a watering can fitted with a rose.
Prevent the weed and slug mixture from falling into the can with a filter of chicken wire folded over the can so it stays put while you pour.
Water the sieved brew around vulnerable plants – the raised nematode population will seek out resident ground-dwelling slugs and see them off.
Like the shop-bought version, this slug killer gives up to six weeks of protection. Save the contents of the chicken wire sieve (uurrgh!) to start off your next nematode brew.
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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 17:33
Any I can buy that won't harm Jeff?
Large Garden and need to use something but the little lad will eat anything I throw about.
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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 17:40
http://www.greengardener.co.uk/product.asp?id_pc=22&cat=35

Nemaslug Slug Killer
Nemaslug® Slug Killer - Control slugs NATURALLY by applying Nemaslug Slug Killer. Nemaslug® contains natural nematodes (Phasmarhabditis Hermaphrodita), which are effective at controlling slugs and unlike chemical controls, are safe for children, pets, birds and wildlife. The nematodes in Nemaslug® Slug Killer are found naturally in UK soil and have been approved for use in organic gardening by the Soil Association.


See the recipe up there^^^^^
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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 17:42
I read the recipe, but need to set about them now, so a fortnight and will have a few hundred pounds worth of chewed greenery is all. Smile
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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 17:46
http://www.diy.com/departments/verve-non-toxic-slug-granules-165kg/188547_BQ.prd?icamp=recs

Does non toxic mean safe for all God's creatures (Bar slugs) or just humans?

Silly question as I know the answer, but if it kills slugs...
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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 18:18
★★★★★
★★★★★
1 out of 5 stars.
· 10 days ago
Waste of money

I saw it said non toxic on the box and assumed that meant non toxic to humans. But it is also non toxic to slugs and as soon as it rains it just disappears into the soil. I think I will go to B and Q and ask for my money back. I give it one star as the website won't allow me to give zero.

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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 18:19
Garden friends

Though you may not think it, slugs have enemies too. They are eaten by frogs, toads, hedgehogs, centipedes, ground beetles, sloworms and fireflies, so make sure you don't use any chemical sprays which can harm them. Providing suitable habitat and food will encourage these beneficial creatures to live in your garden.

However, do not be tempted to introduce predators like hedgehogs into areas where they don't naturally occur. This can change the natural balance on islands or in another environmentally sensitive areas. Hedgehogs eat the eggs and chicks of ground nesting birds and introducing them can create severe problems for native wildlife.
Slug killers

Slug killers based on aluminium sulphate are not strictly organic, but they are environmentally friendly. They kill slugs and snails on contact with minimal risk to other wildlife or pets. Commercially available products using aluminium sulphate as active ingredient include Growing Success and Fertosan.
Protective barriers

Disposable plastic drinks bottles, with the bottoms cut off and the screw tops removed, make excellent individual protective cloches for young transplants. Check for the first few days after transplanting that a slug hasnt been trapped inside the bottle.

A slug and snail tape that creates a protective barrier is now on the market. Slugs are repelled by the small electric charge naturally contained in the copper face. Being self adhesive, it is easy to fix onto pots, seed trays, garden furniture, even onto sturdy plants.

SAS slug and snail repellent contains a natural yucca extract. When sprayed on the ground it forms a physical barrier which slugs and snails will not cross. As with many other repellents, it will withstand light rain, but will have to be renewed after a heavy downpour.

All sorts of materials such as lime, forest bark, crushed eggshells, wood ash, human hair and soot are said to make effective slug barriers, sprinkled on the ground around plants. The idea is that the barrier either dries out the slime that the slugs move on or that it irritates them so they will not cross it. Their effectiveness must inevitably be weather dependent but they may be worth trying, especially under cloches. Make a smooth seedbed type surface before applying a good layer of the material, a few inches wide.
Trapping

Slug traps are commercially available, and they can easily be made from empty plastic pots (e.g. large yoghurt pots) buried to half their depth in the soil and filled with milk and water, or beer. The slugs will climb up the sides, enter the tub and be killed. These traps can be especially useful around newly planted out seedlings to help protect them until they grow away. Sometimes this sort of trap also catches the large, black ground beetles. Make sure the lip of the trap is at least 2 cm above the soil surface. This should stop beetles getting in. As they eat slugs, they need to be encouraged, not killed.
Alternative feeding

A spring planted bed of lettuce is a real treat to the slugs as they may not have had a good meal recently.

It may be possible to keep transplanted plants safe for a while by offering an alternative food supply to slugs - such as lettuce or cabbage leaves spread between the plants.

The slugs tend to collect under these leaves to feed and shelter, so examine them regularly and remove any that you find.

Another idea is to sow a sacrificial crop of something that slugs love, such as brassica or lettuce. Hoe this off while small and leave the hoeings in situ around the transplants.
Avoid susceptible plants

Gardeners too often want to grow things that aren't suited to their site. In the case of plants that are very susceptible to slugs this isn't really worth the effort.

If, for example, the slugs get more out of your hostas each year than you do, the answer is to give up on the hostas and try something else.

Alternatively, these plants can be grown in rough wooden tubs or terracotta pots, out of the reach of slugs.
Baiting and hand picking

Slugs will inevitably collect in cool damp spots. This fact can be used to advantage as a method of reducing slug populations. A piece of damp cardboard held down with stone, or a piece of carpet, for example, is ideal; just lift it up at regular intervals and dispose of the slugs underneath it by dropping them into a pot of salty water.

If you cannot stand picking up slugs by hand, foreceps, tongs or thick rubber gloves can be very useful.

On damp evenings, and even on damp days, slugs will be out and about. This is the time to go out, with a torch if it is dark, armed with a salty water pot to pick up any slugs you find. Examine susceptible plants particularly. This is unlikely to reduce the slug populations in the long run, but it can save individual plants, which is most satisfying.
Winter digging

Autumn digging, leaving the soil rough and cloddy while the slugs are still active will allow those species that hibernate to move deep into the soil. If you must dig, do it in the winter while the soil is cold and the slugs are less active. This may also help to kill some slugs, and expose them to predators such as birds. While digging, look out for slug eggs in the soil. These are little clusters of colourless, round eggs, looking rather like small frogspawn or sago.
Biological control

This is a recent development in slug control. Microscopic nematodes occur naturally in the soil. They seek out and kill slugs by reproducing inside them. These nematodes are now being cultivated, and are available as biological control agent under the trademark Nemaslug. The nematodes are mixed into water and applied with a watering can to the area requiring protection. They remain active for up to six weeks. The nematodes are slug specific, and do not control snails.
Direct sown crops

Direct sown crops can be totally eaten off by slugs, especially in the early spring when top soil is cold and the seedlings are slow to emerge and grow away. Try to increase the rate of seedling emergence and growth by:

sowing later in the season,
choosing the warmer, drier parts of the garden for early sowing (if there are any),
pre-germinate the seed,
improving the soil so it does not hinder germination. If the soil tends to set to a crust, cover the seed drill with some potting compost or sand mixed with the soil,
if the soil has had a thick organic mulch over the winter remove it a few weeks before sowing to allow the soil to warm up. If mulches are used for growing crops, wait until the plants are well established before mulching. Mulches can harbour slugs, but they also provide shelter for slug predators, such as beetles.

Transplanting

If direct sowing always fails, the alternative is to raise transplants. They must again grow quickly to survive slug attack, so it is best to raise them in individual modules, so there is minimal check to growth when they are planted out. For the earliest plantings it is worth growing the plants even larger before transplanting - in individual plastic cups for example. For row crops such as peas, about 3ft lengths of plastic guttering can be used for sowing into. Whole sections of row can then be slid into place when the seedlings are well grown.
Potato slugs

The main attack on potato tubers happens in late summer and autumn, so lifting the crop by the end of August, at the latest, can help to reduce the damage. If lifting early reduces the crop too much choose early varieties and consider decreasing the spacing between plants to, say, 12 inches each way. This will reduce the size that each individual plant will reach, but it will also make them crop earlier - and because there are more plants than usual in the given space, the overall crop should not be reduced.

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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

Wed May 18 2016, 18:26
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Make your own slug killer Empty Re: Make your own slug killer

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